Lawn Care

Some Advice on Creating That Lawn You Always Dreamt Of

You can have a beautiful lawn and better still you don’t need to use chemicals for it to happen. In fact there’s a very good chance that your grass may turn out to be healthier if you don’t use any chemicals. The chemical compounds not only pollute the ground, but also contaminate the water. The benefits that chemicals give are largely short term so try and live without them. You’ll be able to eliminate your use of chemicals by working on the following tips.

The best weed management method is to physically pull all of the weeds. The vast majority of weeds usually are annuals, so if you eliminate them before they go to seed, they won’t come back. Some others could have root systems that have to be taken out so they won’t grow back. Specific weeds like clovers need to be permitted to grow since they are beneficial to a lawn or garden. Clover delivers nitrogen to the soil making it great for keeping your lawn healthy and beautiful. Purchase a soil test kit, to find out how much organic matter is in the soil. It can be good to find out the pH balance of your soil as well as what nutrients are needed to improve the quality.

For the blank spots on your lawn, use a mixture of grass varieties when you re-seed. The sicknesses that get into your turf are picky, so a mixture will keep your lawn from being wiped out by a disease. You need to routinely aerate your soil and break up the grass so it does not become a heavy thatch. In that way, the roots are able to successfully reach the soils nutrients. Earthworms are going to aerate your lawn better than any other thing. If the layer of thatch gets to be a half-inch thick, you need to de-thatch it. By not carrying this out, you’ll have problems with water, nutrients and air entering into your soil. The majority of the thatch can be eliminated if you rake your lawn quickly after aerating it.

Considering that just a little thatch will encourage the decomposition of organic matter, together with the grass clippings, it can be a benefit to the health of your lawn. It is best to preserve the height of the grass at two or three inches, and to keep the grass from going into shock, only a third of the height should be cut at any one time. To counteract trouble for the grass, the mower blades should always be sharp. Never make use of anything but natural fertilizers, because they not only add nutrients into the soil, but they help them stay there longer. Grass clippings and thatch tend to be decomposed by organic fertilizer, and one of the most effective natural fertilizers you can find, is sheep manure.

Make sure you exclusively water when your lawn demands it, and get the water down deeply. If you don’t do this, the roots are going to turn out to be shallow and more predisposed to insects and disease. Once you carry out these methods, you will have a beautiful lawn that everyone will envy.

The First Thing Your Visitors Look At Is Your Gorgeous Lawn

Most people, who are living in their own house, take a lot of pride in looking after their home, both inside and out. The exterior landscaping is the first thing that visitors will see, which means you will want to have it looking the best it can. Additionally, you’ll have a feeling of happiness when you see your beautifully landscaped lawn. If you would like your lawn or garden looking its best, you will need the right tools and equipment for the job.

Many homeowners think that using dangerous chemicals and pesticides are critical for having a successful lawn or garden. That does not have to be the case, since you are able to use organic products on your lawn and garden, which will work on them without harming the environment. You will find quite a few harmful chemicals in the fertilizer for your grass, primarily phosphates and nitrates. It will require plenty of fertilizer to do the whole yard, in some cases, a couple of pounds, which will expose your family to some unnecessary problems. Significant health complications, like asthma and cancer can result. During rains, the chemicals become washed away and pollutes the water supply.

Using natural compost is really a better option than using fertilizers, especially if you can make your own. You can make your own compost simply by filling a compost container with old leaves, grass, food scraps and even pet droppings. It does not demand much effort once you set it up and you won’t create any health issues. The compost you create will likely be filled with nutrients. If you have a large yard, you will need to make a lot of compost. The quantity of compost you get isn’t going to be much because it shrinks as the elements first decompose. The lawn and other plants will grow really well in your nutrient-rich soil.

Having a healthy soil, the plants and grass will have healthier and longer roots. Having sturdy roots means there is less water for you to use consequently, you’ll have a lower water bill. Since several areas have constraints on water usage, you will need properly prepared soil, to get the best results from the water you are allowed. Even not having much water, you will still be ready to have a yard, full of green grass.

When you water in the early morning hours, you’re going to get the most effective benefits from the water, than almost every other time. Since there is less sunlight, there’ll be less evaporation and the water will have a chance to saturate into the soil. But don’t get it done at night since the water could potentially cause fungus to grow.

Brown Patch and Other Lawn Diseases

There are many different lawn diseases that can jeopardize the health of your lawn at any given time. Being educated about these different diseases and the harm that they cause can help you to treat and prevent them.

One very common lawn disease is known as brown patches. Brown patches are most common in areas that experience high levels of humidity and shade. They most commonly occur in Kentucky Bluegrass, Bermuda grass, Bent grass, St. Augustine grass, Centipede grass, and Ryegrasses. These brown spots typically will start out small, but they can quickly spread out in horseshoe or circular patterns. They can grow to be up to several feet wide. Many times, as the brown spot is expanding, the inside of it will recover. This will leave a brown ring in your lawn. The best way to prevent these brown spots from occurring is through regular aeration of your lawn. You can also reduce the shade to the effected areas. This will help them to grow back. A couple common fungicides that are used to treat brown patches are benomyl and chlorothalonil.
Another common lawn disease is the fairy ring. Fairy rings can grow in almost any type of grass. They are circular rings that are filled with a fast growing, dark green grass. Typically, the outside of the ring will turn brown and grow mushrooms. They are most typically found growing in soils that contain a lot of wood debris or old decaying trees. The best way to prevent fairy rings from growing in your lawn is to aerate the area that is effected by the fairy rings. This will help to kill them. It is also a good idea to water only in the early morning hours to help prevent them from growing. You should remove any excess thatch from your lawn, as well. Increasing the nitrogen levels in your lawn through fertilization is also a good way to prevent fairy rings.

Red Thread is another lawn disease that can turn your lawn brown. Red Thread is most commonly found in Fescues, Ryegrasses, and Kentucky Bluegrass. The name ‘Red Thread’ is taken from the pinkish-read threads that are formed around the blades of the grass. These threads then bind the grass blades together. The grass that is affected by Red Thread will eventually turn brown. Since Red Thread attacks only the leaves and leaf sheathes of the grass, it is rarely serious enough to kill the grass. It is easiest to spot Red Thread when the grass is wet. The best way to prevent Red Thread from occurring is to aerate your lawn often and remove any thatch that may have fallen onto the lawn. It is also important to follow a regular fertilization schedule. Chlorothalonil is a commonly used fungicide that can help to treat Red Thread.

Lawn diseases can cause a lot of damage to your lawn, if left untreated. With the proper knowledge, you can spot these diseases and stop them before they get out of control. This article was brought to you by the best electric lawnmower team, thank you for reading.

Lawn Leveling Tips – How do you Level Lawns

The key to achieving a clean, even placement of a lawn lies in the preparation of the site on which the grass is to grow on: no rubble, no protruding large stones, no holes or crevices on the ground that may twist one’s ankle, hide tiny objects, even creatures, that inadvertently roll onto lawn grass, and will make the task of mowing the lawn difficult.
The first step to level lawns – is to clear the area of unwanted objects like tree stumps and large stones. This is done by digging or by using a Rotavator. If there are weeds or unwanted vegetation growing, a systemic weed killer may be sprayed onto the soil to discourage the further growth of weeds. After clearing, the soil is raked to improve soil structure. This also facilitates the leveling process.

The next step is to do soil patching to further even out the surface area and to create a planting surface that is acceptable to the roots of the plants. This can be done by dragging topsoil from one area of the lawn to the other in order to create an even planting surface. Well-drained, sandy loam makes the best topsoil for a lawn. It should be free draining, but at the same time be able to retain a certain water level that can prevent plants from completely drying out. Sand may also be added to the topsoil to level the soil but it can turn cement-like when dry and can cause soil drainage problems. Used alone, sand is not a good surface to grow grass on.
To achieve a uniform level for the planting area, mark the desired soil height using string that is drawn taught on pegs. These pegs are evenly plotted on the area, creating a uniform grid that will guide the distribution of the soil. Adjust the soil level to the marks indicated by the lines. Repeat the digging, raking and leveling processes until a level surface is achieved. The soil is then firmed down.

Cover the whole area with topsoil, preferably 20-30 cm (8-12 inches) deep. Tread evenly over the ground to test if the soil is evenly firm. Take care not to over-compress so that the soil won’t get compacted or water-logged. No activity should be undertaken on the soil surface within the next 4-6 weeks to allow the soil particles to settle down naturally. Lightly fertilize; water the soil thoroughly a few days before putting the grass in.

If lawn ruts or uneven spots appear after the grass has been allowed to grow, patch the soil with an equal mixture of sand and dry topsoil, evenly spreading the mixture, but not entirely covering up the growing grass underneath. Compost may also be added to the patching soil mix for a richer planting medium.

That should be it, keep an eye on the lawn but over time, this uneven spot should eventually level out. These are the simple steps in lawn leveling, it’s not as difficult as it seems. You can save on professional fees. But more importantly is the fact that you will derive much satisfaction in doing your own lawn leveling

Hydroseeding your Lawns

Hydroseeding is a modern and easy way of planting grass on your lawn. In hydroplanting, grass seeds, water, fertilizer, fiber mulch, and lime (optional) are blended together and applied to a prepared lawn area through a spraying hose. The wet fiber, which acts as the planting medium, easily bonds with the soil, creating a water-retaining blanket that will provide the seeds protection from the elements, as well as the nutrients they need, while being established. As the seeds germinate, the growing medium gradually decomposes and adds nutrients to the soil.

Taking Care of Grass

Planting your lawn by hydroseeding has advantages and disadvantages, which are discussed below.
Advantages. Hydroseeding allows for a big lawn area to planted at a relatively shorter period of time. The spraying process covers a wider planting area much more quickly than seeding or sodding. This method also makes it possible to efficiently seed contours and slopes. Because the wet fiber actually adheres to the soil, it creates a surface that prevents soil erosion. Hydroseeding can actually reduce erosion. Hydroseeding costs less than planting with sod, but more than regular seeding. The technology costs more, as well as the actual application which can only be done by trained professionals.

Hydroseeding has been found to result in higher seed germination rates as compared to regular seeding. Because it creates lush growth, mowing and lawn maintenance can actually start at less than a month after the date of application. The fiber in the mulch maintains moisture around the seeds, thus increasing seed germination rate.
Disadvantages. Hydroseeding companies offer limited grass varieties to choose from. Usually, these are sturdy grass varieties that lend themselves well to the procedures.
As in conventional seeding, hydroseeding cannot be done at just about any time of the year, or whenever the lawn owner wants hydroseeding to be done. In order to get the best results, hydroseeding should be done immediately prior to the prime growing season of the specific grass variety. It is seed and season-specific.
Hydroseeding also is a costly process, and one that is best done by professional hydroseeding companies. The technology does not lend itself to “do-it-yourself” gardener. Not only is the hydroseeding sprayer costly; operating it properly requires training and skill.

Nonetheless, in order to make the hydroseeding effort a success, here are some preliminary procedures that have to be undertaken.
Follow their instructions the company will give you on soil preparation. If none are given, you can do this task by going over your soil bed with a lawn roller that is filled with water to 1/2 or 1/4 level.
Get cost estimates from hydroseeding companies in your area. Do not settle for one company, but get comparative costs based on the types of services they offer, types of planting materials or hydroseeding blends they have, and other costs that the planting procedure will entail.
The hydroseed mixture is green in color and the area where it is applied will acquire a green color. This makes it easier to spot missed areas, or areas that need reapplication. The seeds will germinate in about a week. Maintenance can begin at 3 to 4 weeks after the date of application. The hydroseeding company teaches the technique of watering a hydroseeded lawn. Should there be areas of the lawn that show sparse growth or no growth at all, the hydroseeding company can be asked to remedy to the situation.

We hope you found this article useful brought to you by the best lawnmower team !

Lawn Seed Preparation and Costs

Looking for ways to come up with a durable, more lasting lawn? Consider lawn seeding. Lawn seeding ensures that grass on your lawn are deeply rooted and will withstand the wear and tear that most lawns are subjected to.

Although seeding a lawn takes and awful lot of time to do, it is definitely a lot less costly than laying sod. The first step is to determine the type of turf grass to plant. This step requires serious planning and it would be a good idea to get professional advise on what grass to grow in your particular area. Seed dealers can offer a wide variety of lawn products and services to choose from: from seed costs, to labor costs, and other requirements. One tip: never use quick grow seed packages as these contain a high percentage of annual rye, which dies after only one season. How much seed to buy? The rule of the thumb in seeding bare ground is 5 – 6 lbs per 1000 square feet; for over seeding add an estimated 3 – 4 lbs per 1000 square feet.
The initial establishment cost in lawn seeding is generally lower costs related to sodding. This is basically because seeds cost less than sod. Where to plant? Seeding is not an option in areas where there is a high probability of soil erosion. Too much movement of soil particles will prevent the seeds from properly taking root and will prove to be more costly when the process of seeding has to be repeated. Also, herbicides may be needed during the first year of seed establishment to ensure that the young grass plants do not compete with herbs for much needed nutrients in the soil. The cost of herbicide application should be included in the computation of seeding costs.

Taking Care of Grass

Seeding is a good option when you want to have grass in a shaded area; just be sure to plant the right type of grass seeds for the site. Other things you need to do in seeding include loosening the soil, which is a basic requirement for any lawn establishment procedure, clearing the area of weeds and debris, leveling the ground and applying topsoil where needed. Your usual garden tools are often sufficient for these procedures: shovel, rake, pick-ax. A rotary tiller might be needed in areas that are tough to loosen, but renting one rather than buying would be sufficient.

For seed application, you will need a drop or a broadcast sprayer, and then a garden hose and sprinkler to dampen the area where the grass will grow. Make sure the prepared ground drains well. New sprouts can be protected from heavy rain or strong winds by covering them up with a fine layer of hay, which can be removed with a rake when the sprouted seeds are strong enough to stand on their own.

A professional landscaper usually charges around $201for a 2,000-square foot lawn; others may charge around $90 to work on a 1,000 square foot lawn. Just a reminder: be wary of so-called professional grass seeders who charge too little for the job. You might be in for more trouble. Most seed /landscaping companies stay competitive and their price range will lie within a competitive range, so costs should be fairly even.

For an average-sized lawn, you will only need around $50 if you plan to buy the seeds and plant it yourself. If you need to add topsoil, you’ll have spend a little bit more. Some shops have a grass seed calculator that can help you in the computation of costs in preparing your lawn.
Your starter fertilizer should be an 18-24-12 mixture; a 50 lb bag will adequately cover about 12,000 square feet.
A final advice: do your seeding in late summer or early fall, when cooler weather and rains are expected. That way, the tiny plants will be less subjected to stress and will pass through their growing season more peacefully. You will also lessen the probability of having to reseed due to failed initial seeding attempts.

And remember choose the best lawnmower you can to keep the grass trim, and it’s especially important to keep the blades sharp when grass is young as otherwise your mower will tear the grass rather than cut it cleanly.

Lawn diseases, Pictures and Information

Lawn diseases can ruin the appearance of the healthiest and tidiest of lawns. Many turf diseases are difficult to identify and to distinguish from problems caused by pests or by poor maintenance. But with proper management practices, serious damage can be avoided.

The development of disease is often associated with poor turf management practices, such as improper selection and planting of grass variety, insufficient and untimely watering, untimely fertilization, not using the right amount and balance of nutrients, irregular mowing and not mowing at the recommended height, improper amount of light and air movement, non-maintenance of good soil aeration and drainage, and poor thatch management.

But setting these aside, the most common remedy for lawn disease is fungicide. While this may treat the disease, it can also kill off good organisms and insects as well. It should therefor not be used to treat the whole lawn area. The best method of applying fungicide is as a spot treatment. This would minimize damage to the lawn ecosystem.

Several types of fungicides are available in the market and are differentiated by the action they make in stopping the spread of the disease. Contact fungicides remain on the plant’s surface on application and kill spores that come into contact with it. Systemic fungicides move throughout the circulatory system of the plant and stay longer inside the plant’s system. Penetrant fungicides are similar in action to systemic types, but act as a preventive to stop the growth of pathogens.

It can be difficult to identify some of the specific diseases and I will be adding some lawn disease pictures to this post shortly.

Below are some of the common lawn diseases:

1. Snowmold, common to regions where snow falls and sits on the lawn for extended periods of time.
2. Brownpatch, common in regions with high humidity and where the grass grows in the shade. The disease usually starts as a small spot that quickly spreads outwards in a circular or horseshoe pattern. It can cover up to a couple of feet wide.
3. Dollar Spots, common to humid areas. These are small, silver dollar-like discolorations that are brown or straw-colored in appearance which, left untreated, may merge into large patches that are several feet in diameter.
4. Fairy rings, unsightly, difficult to control circular rings that continue to expand with each growing season, leaving circular areas of with poor grass growth and dying grass.
5. Rust, caused by a fungus that gives a rusty appearance to leaf blades. It is not seen every year, but when infestation is severe, it imparts a yellowish to reddish-orange appearance to the lawn. Mowing the grass sends out a red-orange dust that settles on surfaces. Rust makes the soil susceptible to winter kill.
6. Grease spot, slimy-brown patches of grass that are surrounded by white cotton-like fungus.
7. Red thread, characterized by pinkish-red threads that form around the leaf blades, binding them together. The leaves turn brown eventually.
8. Powdery mildew, which covers the grass with whitish powder. Grass eventually wither and die.
9. Pithium blight, or the formation of irregularly shaded spots of wilted brown grass, with cobweb-like mass of fungus; patches form long cluster streaks.
10. Fusarium, light green patches that turn reddish brown; the leaf then dies.
11. Leafspot-Melting Out, brown to purple lesions possibly caused by too much nitrogen.
12. Slime Mold, covers the grass with a powdery substance that looks like crystallized frost that thickens, preventing sunlight from entering the plant cells.

These are the more popular lawn diseases that can be controlled, if not eradicated, by proper care and management of the lawn. It pays to keep the lawn clean in order to ward off these diseases. Often, proper watering and fertilizing are all that are needed to keep the lawn disease-free.

Powerful Weed Killer – War on Dandelions?

Getting rid of those pesky weeds in your front yard can be a real headache, there’s a huge temptation to buying a really powerful weed killer. You pull them over and over again but they just keep coming back. My young son makes some handy cash by clearing my lawn of dandelions by pulling them up, of course the next day they’re back all over my lawn again again! It can also be very frustrating to buy a product that is supposed to obliterate the weeds but the little devils just seem to be invincible. There are a few tips that homeowners should know before they spend a fortune on weed killers that just do not do the job.

One mistake that some people make is that they believe granular weed killers will work better than liquid products. In fact, liquid weed killers can cover an area more thoroughly than the granular forms. You can also more effectively do spot treatments of lawn weeds with liquid products. It is important to note that putting a heavier dose of the weed killer on your weeds is not going to be more effective at killing the weeds. It is just going to be effective at killing your pocketbook.

Another mistake some homeowners make is that they do not read the labels of the weed killers they buy. Some products may start to work in a few hours and some may not work for a few days. Many weed killers need to stay on the weed for 24 hours without rain or irrigation. The label should also clarify what exactly the product will kill. You don’t want to spray your lawn with weed killer and then wake up the next morning to find you have no lawn at all. If you have pets, then you also need to especially look out for weed killers that may be harmful to them.

Many homeowners do not realize that weed killers that can be classified as “pre-emergence herbicides” and “post-emergent herbicides.” Pre-emergence herbicides work well on crabgrass and can be applied a few weeks before weeds are expected. Post-emergence herbicides are used for perennial broadleaf weeds and are used after the weeds have emerged.

Timing is very important when it comes to the application of pre-emergence herbicides. If these weed killers are applied too early, then weather will dilute them and weeds will go ahead and grow anyway. Timing is also important when it comes to using post-emergence herbicides. If you procrastinate with your weeds, then they will just become more of a problem and spread throughout your lawn.

In addition to buying chemicals and powerful weed killers that can wipe out weeds, homeowners should also look into products that will help their lawns flourish. A thick lawn can actually shade out weeds. It is recommended that you keep your lawn mowed at about three inches to shade the weeds. Weak spots in a lawn can be places where weeds will thrive. Nourishing your lawn with a good fertilizer can help your beautiful grass battle back the weeds.

Homeowners should not let weeds frustrate them. They are just a part of landscaping and gardening. With a little research, and perhaps a little patience, homeowners can get to the root of their weed problems and find the right solution.

Cat Repel – Enter the Big Cheese

I like wildlife, in fact although I live on a housing estate, the reason I moved here was it is next to a very old wood and a National Trust property and we get loads of wonderful birds. Anyway here is my story of how operation Cat Repel started. I am hopeless at identifying birds, I get all of them mixed up and that coupled with my diminishing eyesight means that I suspect my contribution to the RSPB survey this year might be flawed – but hey at least I tried.

But I also like other animals, but peering through the window yesterday I noticed a rather lack of birds despite my grand birdie breakfast laid out. On investigation I discovered a large, fat cat named after a famous footballer (name withheld to protect my identity) You see our garden is a bit of a suntrap, so animals who like to sunbathe, tend to lounge around our back garden which is fine, except for a card carrying member of the Royal Society of the Protection of Birds creating a bird killing zone is rather distressing.

So Operation Cat Repel was put into operation and I asked around to try and discover some humane way of repelling our feline friends at least from my back garden. I tried the water pistol method, but that never worked with the squirrels and had a similar effect with the cats. Anyway some suggested this device was a good idea- it’s called the Big Cheese

What it does is emit an ultrasonic sound whenever it detects movement of a large cat sized animal. The detection is infra red and works in a beam 12 metres in length and a 98 degree angle. Cats definitely do not like this! Humans are not really supposed to hear the sound but I’m afraid I could slightly, it’s not much of a problem though and not all can hear it, my wife says she can’t.

Cat Repel Device

It really is very effective, the downsides are you can go through the little 9 volt batteries but investing in rechargeable ones would do that. I do wonder how much more it would have cost to make this solar charged as it’s going to be outside all the time. If you need to repel cats from your garden it does work, although one of the difficulties I found was putting it in the right spot, this of course depends on your garden and layout. You might find you need to buy a few of these units if you have a big garden Overall the Big Cheese Cat Repel device is worht investigating – there’s hundreds of other reviews – Big Cheese reviews here if you want check them out

Bosch Rotak 40 Rotary Mower

There are two main tools that give me loads of problems in my life, printers and lawnmowers and I really don’t know why. If I could I’d happily live without both of them but I can’t, well some of the year I can’t! It’s time now to bring out the lawnmower and do you know what for once I don’t mind as I’ve finally found a decent one – the Bosch Rotak 40 Electric Mower.

I don’t really want a lot from a lawnmower but that’s exactly what I’ve got over the years. I’ve been down the horror that is hover mowers, if you’ve travelled that road you will commiserate I’m sure. I’ve also spent a fortune on big, well built lawnmowers even though I hardly have a huge sized garden – my latest lawnmower in that area is a petrol driven Hayter which set me back several hundred pounds. It does cut the grass well, or should I say did cut the grass well – my wife who could never start the huge thing, pointed out a small little tear in the rubber next to the primer – which is enough to make sure it now never starts for me also.

I did start the detective work trying to find a supplier willing to sell me this small rubber bulb thing for some extortionate amount but in the end just got fed up. I just want a mower that is quick light and simple, something that requires little maintenance and just cuts the grass.

So step forward my latest try and finding such a lawnmower.

Bosch Rotak 40 Rotary mower

The first thing you’ll notice with some dread is the enormous box that it arrives in, fortunately this is quite deceiving as really the Bosch Rotak 40 isn’t actually that big. In fact it’s actually quite light when you do extract it from the huge amount of cardboard – I had mine delivered but I can imagine it would be a struggle to get in a small car in the box!

It does take a little putting together, the grass box is a little fiddly to clip together but nothing too difficult. When you look at the finished item, the initial impression I have to say its plastic, and a slight worry that it looks a little flimsy. Will the Bosch Rotak 40 be able to survive a few summers of grass cutting is initially a worry.

Bosch Rotak 40 in Action

Well there’s not much to tell really, the cord is plenty long enough in my average sized garden even without an extension, it really is very light and you can move it around as easily if not more so than a vacuum cleaner. Being so light you can easily pick it up to avoid obstacles or if you have an odd shaped lawn. A task that was not possible with my cast iron hayter mower I can tell you.

The rotary blades cut quickly and efficiently, the little grass combs on the mower help force the grass back for a very low cut. The grass collection box, holds a surprising amount as it seems to compress the grass in the box, although it does need emptying a few times for most lawns I suspect. The blades seem to cut through everything, any length, leaves, weeds and it even cuts the grass quite easily when it’s damp although I’m not certain that’s a great idea.

It doesn’t actually feel like mowing the lawn, more like you’re running the hoover over it, you actually wouldn’t expect a great finish from the rotary blades in the Bosch Rotak 40 but it is surprisingly good and there are defined stripes which always look good on a lawn.

There is little to dislike, it cuts the lawn quickly and easily, you obviously need to be aware of the cord when mowing but it’s not too hard when you get used to it. It folds up pretty well and I hang it up in my shed. It cuts right up to edges very well and it cuts my average lawns in no time at all. You do have a worry about how well it will last as the majority is built from plastic, but in truth I’ve had mine for three years now and it is still going strong. At the time of writing it’s being sold for around about £125 which I think is a bargain. The Bosch Rotak 40 Electric Rotary Lawn mower is the mower for someone who just wants to cut their lawn quickly and easily, if you want more recommendations look at the reviews on the Amazon web site – here

Updated Links to the new Bosch Ergoflex model (basically the same but cheaper, with different handles)